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« DON'T TOSS THAT TURKEY NECK! THANKSGIVING'S MOST UNDERAPPRECIATED TREASURE | Main | Eating My Way through Barcelona, Paris and Dublin »
Monday
Nov162009

Eating my way through Paris, France

What: European Vacation Part 2
Where: Paris, France

Savoring the last bite of Butter and Sugar crepe on the streets of Paris....The second part of this vacation takes me on a Search to the magical wonderful city of Paris. We were very sad to leave our fabulous apartment in Barcelona, though grateful to take a break from the massive amount of ham we had been consuming. Eating in Spain, as noted in the previous post, is intense, and we were ready to sample some new cuisines.

We knew it was totally crazy to go to Paris. Though it was only about an hour and half from Barcelona, we would be there for less than 24 hours. Certainly not enough time to spend in the second best city in the world (my hometown, NYC, of course being #1). But the lure of crepes and buttery pastries and outdoor cafes was too much for us to resist. We had to see this great city, if only for a moment...

The River Seine, Eiffel Tower in the distance.We arrived at the Hotel Beaubourg at 2:00 p.m, threw down our bags and left immediately. We were hungry! I hadn't settled on a lunch place, so we wandered around Le Marais (a hip, exciting area of Paris) looking for somewhere to grab a quick bite. Our plan was to just get a baguette and some cheese, but when we found La P'tite Casquette (26 Rue Beaubourg, PHONE: 01 40 27 08 31) and the charming owner, Isabelle, beckoned us in we decided to relax and have a nice Parisian lunch. Isabelle was really sweet and explained the menu to us in perfect English. It turned out she was friends with a woman who worked as a chef at Cafe Luxembourg, a nice restaurant on the Upper West Side that we have been to often. Small world.

Outside of restaurant La P'tite CasquetteI started with dish of Oeufs en Cocotte, basically a dish of barely poached eggs swimming around in a cream and leek broth. Matt had a lovely crepe like concoction called Douceur Italianne that was filled with eggplant, pesto, mozzarella cheese and chopped tomatoes. For our second course, I had a Parisian version of a stir fry--flavorful chunks of chicken braised in soy sauce and herbs, with tender sauteed haricot verts. It was comforting and yummy. Matt had an artery clogging dish of tiny, dime sized ravioli cloaked in an impossibly thick cream sauce reminiscent of a classic Alfredo. We didn't want a whole bottle of wine (it was lunch, after all), but Isabelle opened a nice bottle for us and told us we could pay based on how many glasses we drank. It was a delightful meal and we were well fortified and ready to take on the city.

We set off on what was possibly the fastest tour of Paris in history. Walking briskly through the beautiful streets we admired the oh-so-Parisian buildings and the lovely river Seine. We tore through Arrondisement after Arrondisement (basically neighborhoods). On our way, we passed one of the most famous cooking supply stores in the world: E Dehillerin. This was a favorite store of Julia Child, and it is filled with all sorts of cookware goodies. In her memoir "My Life in France" (Buy it on AMAZON!), which I happened to be reading while on this trip. Julia Child describes E. Dehillerin as "the kitchen-equipment store of all time...stuffed with an infinite number of wondrous gadgets, tolls, implements, and gewgaws..." If you love to cook and you're in Paris, this place is worth a visit. I bought a gorgeous spatula there that was so expensive I thought it must be lined with gold. But it is one hell of a spatula. I know I will be cooking with it for the rest of my life.
Outside famous cooking supply store, E. DehillerinInside the crazy world of E. DehillerinTo be in Paris for even a few hours is to see a fairy tale come to life. It is such a magical place with so much character and so much life. Every corner we turned we would smile and look at each other, thinking "this is so...Paris!" From the buildings, to the beautiful people, to the river Seine with the Eiffel tower in the distance, there really is no place like Paris.

We sampled three exciting treats on our marathon tour. The first, a cone of rum-raisin Berthillon ice cream. Berthillon is a famous ice cream producer in Paris and this is some very special ice cream. The best place to get it is in on Ile Saint Louis, a charming little neighborhood. There are dozens of cafes selling the Berthillon brand--this is THE neighborhood to go if you've got a craving for some great ice cream. The creamy rum-raisin was seriously spiked with rum and plump, rum saturated golden raisins.
Me admiring the cone of Berthillon rum raisin ice creamThen there was...the crepe. We had to have a crepe! We passed a stand where a woman was making crepes to order (these little stands are all over the streets). We ordered the butter and sugar crepe, simple as can be. The crepe-lady squeezed out the batter into the crepe pan and spread it out with a wooden tool used especially for this purpose. She created a paper thin buckwheat dough. She topped the crepe with a heap of butter and a sprinkling of coarse sugar and expertly folded it up into a little butter sugar bundle. Man, they know how to live here.
Crepe maker in action making our butter and sugar crepeDuring our outing, We happened to stumble upon a famous Bread bakery called Poilane. In "My Life in France" Julia Child also visits this bakery in order to film the baker making his famous baguettes for her television show. This is a tiny bakery. The walls are lined with breads and pastries, and the comforting smell of freshly baked crossaints and baguettes envelops you as you as you step inside. You can see the kitchen in the back, with bakers hard at work producing the finest quality baked goods imaginable. We ordered a single slice of sour dough bread, because it looked so perfect, which the shop owner simply cut from the loaf and weighed out, and a magnificent apple tartlet which was crumbly and flaky and delicious.
Outside of the famous Poilane BakeryPerfect apple tartlet from PoilaneWe allowed ourselves a brief half hour break to sit outside at a cafe and have a cup of coffee. This is a very Parisian thing to do. We watched the people walk by, thinking about how lucky we were to be sitting at a cafe in Paris. But the clock ticked on and there was not time for much reflection. It was nearly time for our Dinner in Paris.

It was quite a challenge choosing a restaurant for one night in Paris. Paris has so many restaurants and so many of them are so good! There are dozens of Michelin starred places, where you can spend over 300 Euros per person. But the beauty of Paris is that you can also go to a wonderful old bistro, spend a lot less money, and still have an incredible meal. Perhaps some day we will go back and sit down for a 5 hour dinner at the fanciest place in Paris. But for this trip, there was nothing more perfect, no place more classically Parisian, or more satisfying and delicious, than Chez L'Ami Jean.

Chez L'Ami Jean is a crazy, frenetic place. It is packed with people talking loudly and eating voraciously. The waiters hustle around balancing dishes, pouring wine and chatting with customers. The menu is entirely in French and we did not understand a word of it. We had no choice but to let our waiter guide us and basically decide our menu. And I'm glad we did. It was game season in Paris, and I probably would never have gotten the dish of Partridge, Foie Gras and Marrow, had our waiter not insisted. Nor would Matt have gotten the Pork Back wrapped around some sort of ground pork meat mixture, also accompanied by foie gras and a giant bone filled with marrow.

Wonderful bottle of wine from Chez L'Ami JeanWild mushrooms in Crock pot from Chez L'Ami JeanPartdrige, foie gras and marrow at Chez L'Ami JeanThe partridge was served pink--very pink--almost rare, and was mild but a little gamey and tasted of the woods and of a true wild bird. The pork was fatty and decadent, perfectly seasoned. The Pommes Puree that accompanied our dishes was unlike any mashed potatoes we had ever had and was probably more butter than potatoes. In fact, it may be insulting to call them something as humble as a "mashed potato." Stunning. Along with a starter of sauteed wild mushrooms served in a crock pot, and a lobster salad topped with a luxurious cream sauce, this was a perfect Parisian meal. The speciality of the house was actually their dessert--a rice pudding served in a giant bowl along with a wooden spoon. We actually did not order this dish because we were, believe it or not, too full (gasp!). Thank goodness, we became friends with the people at the neighboring table and we were offered a taste. Served with homemade granola and a sort of caramel custard, this was a dessert that should not be missed, no matter how much partridge you may have eaten. If you happen to go to Chez L'Ami Jean, please make sure you order the Rice Pudding.
Our kind dining-neighbors who let us sample the extraordinary Rice Pudding at Chez L'Ami JeanAfter dinner, we walked to the Eiffel Tower. As soon as we arrived, the Tower lit up and began to sparkle with thousands of lights. We were full and satiated with the deliciousness and wonder of this city. A glorious ending to a glorious 12 hours in Paris. Now, off to Dublin...

the Eiffel Tower, shining at midnight



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Reader Comments (2)

can't wait to try this place, can't believe i've been here for 7+ years and never eaten there

November 20, 2009 | Unregistered Commenterjon
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